Fabbrica di San Martino

Colline Lucchesi, Toscana

The Fabbrica di San Martino was founded in 1735 in the hills outside of the town of Lucca.

Having run one of Lucca’s favourite trattorias for many years, Beppe Ferrua began tending the vines here several decades ago and without any formal training, set about learning by working alongside and watching carefully the contadini who had looked after the land for many years.

A twenty hectare property surrounded by woodland, the two and a half hectares of vines are exposed south and sit within an area of great biological diversity. Having discovered that the vineyards had never been subject to chemicals, he decided to continue this way of farming, later converting the farm to biodynamics. In a picturesque setting, the vines share pride of place with a seventeenth century villa, ancient olive trees, cows and donkeys.

In the farm’s tiny cantina, Beppe does the simple things well, producing decidedly old-fashioned wines full of soul, purity and sense of place. One of the most passionate and intuitive cooks we know, it comes as little surprise that his wines make so much sense on the table, having a real affinity with Tuscany’s rich cuisine.