Chinato is perhaps Piemonte’s most famous digestif. Traditionally made with aged Barolo, it takes its name from the bark of quinine (or “China”) tree, which is the chief botanical here. Vergano prefers to use a younger wine from Barbaresco, the tannins not as firm, the perfume a little more lifted. The china bark lends the wine tea-like tannins, while herbs and spices like cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, coriander, bay, ginseng and rhubarb provide warmth and real interest. Enjoyed on a brisk afternoon with a piece of very dark chocolate, it is one of the great marriages of food and drink.