A wine made only in rare instances, this year’s is Chardonnay from old vines planted over limestone and marl in En Arces, Arbois. The grapes were destemmed and the wine macerated on the skins for three months, before being pressed to vats for a year of elévage. Hazy and perfumed, delicate and nuanced, it is a wine of rare energy and a highly original marriage of grape and place.