From a parcel in the very highest part of Sassella, around six hundred metres above sea level, this is what the great sforzato wines once were and perhaps what they ought to be. The Peregos believe that a true expression of grape, place and vintage is lost when one dries grapes away from the vineyard. Instead they harvest their fruit late, allowing the grapes to dry on the plant. The wine spends thirty days on skins in tini and four years in huge old chestnut casks and is impossibly deep – full of warm, sweet fruit, it screams for a good hunk of cheese from the surrounding hills.